Craftsman rabbet plane 3730 replacement cap

Box ok with some marker on lid and label 85 percent. Plating on body and fence near complete a few scratches on knob vee mark cutter. Has instructions box ok but only traces of label. Plane clean with fence and rods no cutters. Box has one split seam and good label. Good plus TWR50 Lot of three pod braces. All unsigned and likely user made. One has a pod but no bit held by a wooden peg one has a pod made from the brass shell of a Sheffield brace and one has a nicely made boxwood screw-in pod with bit.

All have working rotating heads wood worn but no major damage. Unsigned push-button chuck one crack in body near the head rosewood head has some minor chips. Chuck has a wide flat pushbutton with Hawke's name and an eagle on it.

Ebony head with a brass button stamped H. Hawke Solly Works Sheffield. Wood has wear but no damage. An uncommon maker. Both hand-carved with rotating ball-shaped heads one has a spoon bit but missing its brass ferrule the other has no bit. Both 13 long with 6 sweeps. Good WOL Clothespin pod brace. Hand carved pod has auger type bit rotating head 14 long with 8 sweep. One tight crack initial M and small star design stamped.

Good RSH Wooden brace with fixed bit. Hand carved and very well made 14 long including fixed auger bit 6 sweep looks like red beech and wonderful patina of age smooth working head with brass washer. Pushbutton chuck marked by Pilkington good lignum head with plain brass button. A super clean example. Unplated pushbutton chuck with Mathieson Edinburgh stamped good head that looks like lignum includes original set of six auger bits also marked by Mathieson.

Wood has wear and user stamp but no damage. Good plus WOL Ornate cast iron harness hanger. Unmarked brass hinges traces of japanning. Good DCR Jeweler's anvil on wood base. Unmarked some surface rust. Good WOL Small anvil. Some scratching and surface rust a few small chips. Good RRT Patented register cover and ventilator.

Likely for a stove. Cast iron 3 ornately designed circular pieces fit concentrically inside each other and are roughly 7 inch 13 inch and 16 inch wide. I can't find the corresponding patent however. At some point was painted red then painted black on top and some red is showing on worn spots. That's my best guess. It appears to attach to a bench or wall and the top is slightly sloped with Level Here and cast into body.

Rusty but presumably will still hold your level just fine. Good- ASY72 Lot of three small anvils. Two with 5-one-half inch long faces 3 inches tall some surface rust but look barely used. And a taller one with nearly 6 inch long face and 5 inches tall. All unmarked. Good HAN Utility rings. That's my best guess likely used in barns in mortar or beams to fasten ropes and horses through the rings. Look manufactured with some japanning on most. Unmarked and likely smith made with small casting flaws.

Tight crack near top in edge. Some discoloration but no pitting sharp edge. Has decorative carvings 4 inch edge on aluminum head 31 inch handle a few dirt smudges. Has what looks like partial mark I can't read 6-one-fourth inch edge wood handle ok some light pitting on metal.

One is a foursquare on one side and sweetheart mark on other side with 3-three-fourths inch edge and slightly worn handle. Other has notched rectangle mark with 3 inch edge partial stamp on handle with wear. Both have light surface rust spots. Good DOR Side axe with nail hole. Handle worn with inactive worm. Wood lacquer quite worn but cutter good and sharp. Several screws and screw holes in body many have cracks through them cutter held with brass plates and large wingnut user stamps sveral times wear to wood.

Good- SPM Cast iron router. Unmarked but looks manufactured massive one-half inch wide body has two worn and chipped knobs one has crack as well seven-sixtheenths inch cutter held with slot screw pitting and a few holes in sole surface rust. Knobs have some scratching and wear plating 70 percent with a few rust spots has pointed cutter 4 hangholes in body and missing depth stop.

Early type with no adjustment screw cutter looks like replacement missing depth stop knob lacquer has wear and chipping nickel plating 90 percent. Type 4 wood has light wear plating 90 percent one-half inch cutter. Unmarked but has fish tail wingnut and wood handle. Wear to lacquer on handle a few spots of light pitting no plating otherwise a nice example of an uncommon tool. One cutter plating 70 percent handle a little dirty. Plating decent on both a few spots of rust on wingnuts wood has light wear.

Superclean with lightly worn beach handles roller in good shape plating 95 percent. Marked Patent Applied For with standard chest measurements on both sides of sliding arm and trunk sizes on stem. Moderate wear and staining. If you feel like making your own underwear this square is for you. Providence RI which dates it prior to Light wear and a few chips and stains. Good JRI Lot of four rules. Plus an unmarked cask rod 36 inches long square boxwood body marked in inches on two sides and wine gallons on one side brass lined tip.

Good PLH T-bevel. Nicely made from mahogany and brass seven-eighths inch body with three-eighths slotted blade that is brassbound. Large iron locking wingnut looks handforged. Good REW Lot of two wooden measuring tools. Light wear especially on head. And cooper's dividers made from sincle piece of bent wood square wood nuts lock arms in place points on both ends. And a No. Ebonized hardwood 12 inch edges with nickel plated hinges light wear and a few small scratches but generally clean four pieces of tape on backside that could be carefully removed.

Unmarked inside solid bulbous handle there is a steel tube that holds bits and has 5 inch bit gear has about half its red paint dirty. Gear handle is replaced celluloid one. Japanning 85 percent two jaw chuck level vial wet wood ok some surface rust. Japanning ok on one side of gear but missing on other side and on breast plate wood worn missing one screw two jaw chuck rusty. Handles worn some spots of rust one with flat head and other with Phillips head plating 80 percent.

Good PLT Lot of two tool handles. One is marked with patent date corresponding to G. And smaller one unmarked but similar in style with 8 bits waer to wood and 60 percent plating. Good GFR Lot of tool handles. An uncommon example of THAYER'S patent square chuck ratcheting handle marked on backside with patent date plating 85 percent wear to wood handle no bit.

Good GAN Lot of 3 hand drills. All clean with 3 jaw chucks. Faint markings and some rust spots. Good- and better LEE40 Lot of four framing squares. A PSandW No. All clean with the PSandW having a few spots of rust. Surface rust spots and some wear.

All have some rust spots No. Good SAN Lot of 3 try squares. All unmarked but look English one-half inch 4-one-half inch and 3 inch blades with rosewood handles. All worn with some chips blades have pitting. Handles have some light wear largest has most wear to wood some spots of light pitting on blades. Look smith made with 12 inch legs flat locking thumbscrew some light rust. Some wear and light pitting on No.

Japanning 90 percent 12 inch rule has a few spots of tarnish vials wet. Iron look smith made 12 inch legs partial mark may be initials fairly clean. Circle mark on cutter japanning retouched a few chips and stains on wood tote ok. Hanghole at toe.

Type 1 stamp with eagle user name stamped below Bailey patent cutter with some rust spots. Wood has some dings stains chips on tip of tote and sole has water damage on back half and tight crack at toe but no chipping. Both cut 2 inches with some light wear and staining. G30 wood bottom plane. Marked only No. G30 at toe cutter marked Stanley and Gage Self Setting Plane tip of tote cracked off below metal plate knob good light chipping at toe as typical but otherwise sole is good.

Has Stanley plaque nailed to body behind frog. Both have triangular bodies roughly 20 inches long with 1-one-half inch wide cutters screwed at front. One has handle other has additional one-eighth inch cutter at toe presumably for grooving. Wear age checks and cracks staining. Good- REW H. B mark 4 stars. Made of rosewood 9 inch sole 1-three-fourths inch cutter rusty at top so mark illegible. A couple deep chips in sole scrapes on cheeks and some paint overall wear.

Stilley was a carpenter joiner ship builder originally from Cincinnati who made planes in San Francsico from mid-to-end of the 19th century. Oval body with rounded toe and heel unmarked 1-three-fourths inch cutter also unmarked. Some staining and wear. Unmarked one-eighth inch cutter and one-fourth inch wide body cracks in wood skate wedge has finial broken off.

Some staining. Good- HOO48 Lot of three molding planes. A double boxed quirk ovolo by TJ M'Master light wear and a few chips in boxing. And two by BARRY and WAY including a sash plane with mild wear and a few checks at toe including one in the corner of body and a 1-one-half inch skew rabbet plane some wear and spots of rust.

Good GAN Pair of side rabbet planes. Toe marked both three-fourths and one-eighth user name light wear and has been waxed. A few age checks at heel. Cuts a fillet in the middle with astragals on either side two escapements on right cheek and one on left cheek. Well made and in decent shape. Good DTN Lot of 8 beading planes. All but two are fully boxed remainder are single boxed center beads and side beads. Light to moderate wear some boxing has cracks. Handle is replaced. Traces of japanning and chip in skate ahead of throat.

Earlier type with ivy handle and semi-circle mark on cutter cap screw looks later. Surface discoloration on sole japanning 80 percent. Script mark on body sweetheart cutter missing fence japanning repainted. Depth stop screw is knurled-edge flathead replacement. Later model with Stanley cast into fence. Missing bullnose attachment otherwise complete with 70 percent nickel plating.

Some traces of rust especially on rods no cutters except the filletster bed one. Small dings to wood. Early type Bailey cutter with unmarked lateral japanning retouched. Has washer holding forks of what appears to be a replacement ball and fork and replacement throat adjuster under brass knob. Chip in right cheek and in throat surface discoloration and pitting on sole. Sweetheart mark on cutter and hand-ee grip on sides. Cutter and throat good nickel plating is 70 percent.

Japanning 75 percent two-line mark on cutter nick in edge. Early type with delicate screwcap and semicircle mark on cutter japanning 70 percent. Cutter can be reversed for bullnose work. S casting marks on bed and lever cap patent dates also cast into bed. Japanning 70 percent arched mark on cutter that has some nicks plain lever cap.

Good CVR Patternmaker's plane. Sole has cutout sections and a dovetail at sole that fits into notch in wood bottom. Wood bottom attached with screw behind throat and at toe and is marked with number 48 at heel. Rosewood tote has repaired crack at tip and chipping knob has dinging chip at heel of wood bottom.

Different but well made. Made by Sargent and equivalent to their No. Equivalent to the Stanley No. Has had the last few inches of heel cut off tip of tote missing and wood has moderate dinging and wear. Properly marked cutter line carved in one cheek traces of japanning. Looks like the plane on pg. Solid adjusting knob marked with William's patent.

Has replacement Stanley sweetheart cutter but chip breaker is marked Defiance tip of tote missing dings and gouges in wood and paint spots. Rust and discoloration to metal throat has small chip. Japanning 85 percent with a paint spot on lever cap sweetheart cutter some wear but throats ok.

Looks like a Type 14 with B casting marks J mark on cutter japanning 90 percent but only traces of nickel on lever cap. Throat has nicks. Has properly marked blade. Good- CVR Lot of two wide throw iron braces. Both unsigned and smith made one with an unusual angular design and 19 sweep good rotating wooden head the other has a 17 sweep and good pear-shaped wooden head both have thumbscrew locking chucks.

Good plus REW94 Lot of four ratcheting braces. Good and better BWH Lot of two patented braces. Has the ratcheting mechanism with flip-out pawls characteristic of era PSandW braces and usually attributed to Ellrich's patent good rosewood grip the head is brass with rosewood infill which we've never seen before 8 sweep.

And a good clean example of the L. Good plus REW46 53 Lot of three iron braces. Two have the spring-activated chuck lever originally developed by Jeremy Taylor and the subject of the earliest American brace patent both look manufactured but unsigned 9 and 10 sweeps and a smith made brace with thumbscrew locking chuck. Good and better REW90 91 Lot of two patented braces. Rating is for the Hildreth. Good plus REW35 38 Lot of two unhandled screw-arm plow planes.

Both have rust on skates. Good- HAN H. A few dings to body wedge replaced nuts good with light wear overall in clean condition. Good BSR Lot of two planes. And an unmarked adjustable European sash plane large turned outer nuts and gear shaped inner nuts at center of body some chips on threads one finial on arm burned brass diamond shaped locking nuts on side fence. Stamped at toe but has rosewood arms nuts and shoulders with beech body and fence. SANDUSKY cutter bottom tip of tote broken off and smoothed over chip in boxing on fence a few stains skate clean moderate chipping on threads stains on wedge and user name.

Canterbury mark on toe decorative molding on right cheek brass caps on arms with one having cross inlay boxwood wedges and beech body partially boxed sole. Unmarked with wooden thumbscrews brass diamond inlays on shoulders plain cutter white painted number on one cheek.

Light wear and some chips. Marked Gabriel as well as initials IL and I. Some staining to wood wedges look like replacements brass caps on arms crack at toe. Good- CLA European style small plow. Roughly 6 inches long oak body with brass skate and iron threaded arms.

Locking outer wingnuts with decorative wood scroll between them and inner knurled screws in middle of body. And a larger one-half inch by 21 inch framed one with brass tightener rod at top wingnuts lock the blade some staining on one handle. Good RRT Framed print.

Inside black and gold 13 inch by 10 inch frame yellowing of paper and backing. Paper on backside of frame stamped C. Tool Chest Legacy poster inside nice gold painted one-half inch x one-half inch frame slight yellowing of paper. Good JSW33 Inlay woodworking sample boards. Some talented woodworker put together two boards showcasing the many different inlay patterns he was capable of making with holes at the top of the boards for hanging or carrying.

All mounted on cardboard with wax paper coating. Two Stanley Works limited edition posters and out of have creases from rolling. Stanley Tools Full Line Catalog in plastic from Colonial Williamsburg Tools poster and canvass bag. Roger Smith Stanley Alphabet reprint. Stanley th anniversary postcard tool list and two pocket tapes. Two packs of Stanley racing cards. And a laminated cutout of a hand plane keychain. Good PTL99 Lot of three rules. And an unmarked two fold two foot with wear and stains smoothed over chip in edge.

All two foot two fold. All have a stain or two Bradburn has most wear and staining pins ok. Four fold two foot rule with beveled edge light wear pins ok and one end slightly sprung. Good LBD45 Lot of three drafting rules. A triangle scale rule marked J. All have light wear but generally clean. Good WOL Lot of four small rules. A 3 fold 1 foot marked only Made in England wear and staining. A small 3 foot wooden zig zag rule unmarked light staining.

And a small brass zig zag rule centimeters in length marked TF in a circle some bending but generally clean. Good WOL A. Not marked but it looks like it could be a No. Highly worn with chips and stains but has its pins. Someone has deeply and largely carved the inch numbers and markings. Does have authentic A. Stanley mark. Some tarnish to brass. Fair RUS Shoe rule. Unmarked 12 inch boxwood rule with brass slide inside and one caliper that flips up to allow for measurement of shoe size.

A few cracks chips and stains. Wear on both and a few stains. Four fold two foot. German silver trim has some wear and slight tarnish some yellowing and several cracks in body has only one pin. Hinges work smoothly. One of Stanley's rarer rules manufactured from Missing one pin some light wear and a few stains but overall in decent shape.

Orange paint with notched rectangle mark on it two holes on either side for nails. Made in USA under Stanley logo. Good plus DHS Lot of three mortise gauges. All with wear and dinging points ok. Disston and Morss has groove in side of stem from locking thumbscrew and one larger chip on stem. One has wood thumbscrew others brass.

A mortise gauge with rule on one side marked Made in Germany. And a four-stem marking gauge with rules in all the stems locking thumbscrews points face in all four directions on square head. Good BWH Lot of three rosewood mortise gauges. One is unmarked with fixed pin broken off. All have some wear and scratching. Good- and better JRI Lot of two mortise gauges. Both have some wear and dinging especially on Marples. Points worn on unmarked one.

Good JRI Ebony mortise gauge. Ultimatum style with locking center screw brass inlaid circle on oval head points ok some chips and wear unmarked. Good WOL Lot of two measuring tools. A fully brass bevel with 7-one-half inch body and 6 inch blade unmarked.

And brass and steel calipers one fixed point and one locking with tiny thumbscrew on 7-one-half inch long stem with some light surface rust. And a 6 inch long marking gauge wood looks like mahogany with bone locking screw and white glass button on bottom point ok.

Good CAN26 28 Brass stem mortise gauge. User name overstamped makers mark so all I can read is Sheffield. Ultimatum style with center locking screw round ebony head with inlaid brass circle on top light wear and points good.

Rosewood body and square head locking screw on head and adjustment screw at end light wear and a few user stamps. Good WOL Boxwood mortise gauge. Unmarked with brass locking thumbscrew wood has some scratching and dinging otherwise nice. Good PNG60 Lot of two spokeshaves. Has 60 percent plating and a Stanley cutter. Both nickel plated version with one having only traces and rust and other has 85 percent nickel.

Both with straight fences only includes 12 cutters and 2 blanks with some surface rust. One with concave steel plated sole and 4 inch arms 2-one-eighth inch cutter. And one with flat steel plated sole and 2 inch cutter 4 inch arms. Both have some wear and chips. Good CLA Lot of two double bladed spokeshaves.

One of Stanley's less common shaves Type 1 all original japanning worn hang hole. Good SAN Hand beader. Similar in design to a Windsor beader but larger and unmarked 12 inch across walnut with brass face plate and three rotating sets of cutters. Good plus HNL Lot of three brass spokeshaves. Unmarked with a few spots of tarnish. Japanning 70 percent good sharp edge patent date on underside. Good plus BSR L.

Has the original screw-eye and proper cutter. Japanning 60 percent. Good- and better BEN24 Panel raiser. Inactive worm. Bell worked in Philadelphia and this is his C mark. Tote tip missing a few chips at top of toe and on fences age checks and staining.

All unmarked includes nosing plane with missing wedge but has replacement piece stuck in there three-eighths inch and five-eighths inch round planes a smoother and a toothing plane with 3 large toothed cutter. Most look handmade. Good- and better ESY72 Small filletster plane. Unmarked 5-one-half inch body with brass skate and brass edge on fence one-eighth inch cutter. Some staining and light wear otherwise in nice shape. Good JBN Side rabbet. Steel lined sole and fence edges.

Double cutter plane but the groove cutter is missing marked four-eighths on heel some staining and a few rust spots. Good- NHF J. ASH and CO. Not all one set as has a mix of user stamps all single boxed widths from one-fourth inch to 1 inch. Light wear some chewing on wedges a few have chips or cracks in boxing. Good WOL G. BERRY casemaker's molding plane. Looks similar to the illustration E in Whelan pg.

Fully boxed double cutters side adjustable depth stop has arched cutout between the two screws. A few scratches and dings but otherwise nice. A snipe bill plane left half side boxed clean. And the left half of a side round pair -see Whelan pg.

Good THF Lot of two double-bladed molding planes. And a G. HAY ogee-quirk-bead-bevel spring marked and double boxed a few cracks in boxing and light wear. Good HAN Lot of three side molding planes. And what looks like a side snipe plane -see Whelan pg. Small size at 16 inch x one-half inch x 8-one-half inch and made of oak. Also stamped on frame under bottom drawer. Bottom and sides ground smooth. Easy adjustment. A turn of adjusting screw extends or retracts cutter.

For sidewise adjustment or removal of cutter release wedge-like lever on clamp. Model Bottom and sides ground and polished smooth. Instant cutter adjustment: cutter extended or retracted by turn- ing adjusting screw; lateral adjustment by moving lever on cutler.

Mouth opening adjustable by merely loosening knob nut at front of plane and turning metal cam at the base of knob nut. A top quality plane especially suited to cross grain planing. Bottom and sides ground and polished. Jointed cap snaps into position and holds cutter firmly. Turn of adjusting screw extends or retracts cutter. Mouth adjustment same as on Plane described above.

Determine the direction of the grain on the surface and along the edge. Fig 2. Check surface with a straight edge. To remove high places adjust cutter for very fine shaving. Place thumb in back of knob of plane and allow' the fingers to slide along the surface of the board, guiding the plane straight along the edge.

Hold handle firmly with other hand. Take full strokes and cut full width Fig. Alternate pressure on knob and handle as in planing the surface. Check edge with a try-square. Make fine shavings in removing high places. Hold plane in same manner as for planing edge, but aL an angle w ith the side of the board so as to obtain a shearing action.

Plane half-way from each end Fig. Otherwise the corners w ill break off. Adjust the cutter to cut shavings of the proper thickness as in ordinary planing. Be sure cutter is exactly in line with the side of the plane and pro- jects evenly through the bottom. Adjust spur, which is the round cutter fast- ened to the side of the plane, by loosening the center screw and turning spur clock-wise until the fourth notch engages the pin. Re-tighten center screw. Keep spur in closed position when plane is not in use.

Experimenting and practice will determine how to set the width and depth gauges. If the gauges cannot be used because board being rabbeted is too thin, wide, or narrow, a strip of wood may be nailed or clamped to the board as a width gauge.

The depth, in the case of a thin board, should be located along edge by using a marking gauge or pencil line. Have board held firmly on bench. Hold plane level, and press so that widLh gauge is against edge of board. Take each stroke evenly and for entire length of board. The spur scores the w T ood. Continue until depth gauge is against the upper surface of board.

For best results keep cutter and spur sharp. Mechanics find it valuable for beading— either on the edge or on the center of the board— plowing, dadoing, rabbeting, matching, slitting, and sashwork. Keep the cutter sharp and keep it bevelled and adjusted properly. Pro- tect the cutter when it is not in use. Know how to disassemble and re assemble your planes correctly.

The time you spend caring for these tools will be more than compensated for by the time you save through increased efficiency. The following section of this booklet is devoted to the proper maintenance of your planes.

So that you will get the greatest pleasure and satisfaction from your own woodworking, we suggest that you read ihesc pages carefully. One of the first things to remember is that good results and ease in operation depend upon the proper condition and correct adjustment of the tool. LTse the accompanying picture diagram Fig. A plane is taken apart to sharpen the cutter or to change the position of the cutter cap in relation to Lhe cutting edge of the blade. To take the plane apart, lift up the thumb piece of the clamp.

Remove clamp and then the cutter cap and cutter w hich arc held together by a large- headed screw known as the cap screw r. Using the damp as a screw driver, loosen the cap screw and slide the cutter cap in slot until the head of the cap screw passes through the enlarged hole at the end of the slot. You now have three parts of your plane taken apart: the clamp, the cutter cap, and the cutter.

This protects the edge and minimizes the danger of cutting the fingers. In many cases frequent sharpening on an oilstone, as later described, is all that is necessary to keep a cutter blade sharp. If the cutting edge of the cutter reflects light it needs sharpening.

Xrvcr attempt to work your plane if the cutter is the least hit dull. The following steps are necessary if the cutter is ex- tremely dull or has become nicked: 1. Remove the nicks and straighten the cutting edge of fig.

Slide the cutler from right to left across the wheel. Resulting edge must be square with the edge of the side of the cutter Fig. Hold t lie cutler, with the bevel side down, firmly be- tween the thumb and index fore finger of each hand. Place cutter on the tool rest of grinding wheel so that the existing bevel of the blade coincides with the curve of the grinding wheel Fig. NOTE: The correct bevel angle is 25 degrees.

This makes the bevel a little longer than twice the thickness ol the cutter blade. When the proper location of the cutter on the rest has been determined, bring the cutter gradually but firmly down on the revolving wheel. Slide the cutter back and forth from right to left Fig. Dip the cutter frequently in water to prevent overheating. T Continue grinding, as in step 3. This so-called wire edge is an extremely thin piece of excess metal which is removed by whetting on a fiat oilstone.

When whetting be careful thai the bever is not rounded. Clean ofT the surface of the oilstone and place a few drops of oil on it as a lubricant. This oil will also float the small panicles of steel resulting from whetting and will prevent their dogging the stone.

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